Thanjavur (Tanjore) was the capital of the imperial Cholas, and the temple Rajaraja I built here is the high point of their architecture. Locals simply call it the Big Temple. Completed in 1010 CE, the Brihadeeswara Temple is still a working Shiva temple more than a thousand years later, and together with the temples at Darasuram and Gangaikonda Cholapuram it forms the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Great Living Chola Temples.
The city later became the seat of the Nayak and then the Maratha rulers, who left a palace, a remarkable library and a lasting tradition of music, painting and crafts. Thanjavur is the rice bowl of Tamil Nadu, surrounded by the green fields of the Kaveri delta.
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Why visit Thanjavur
The Big Temple alone justifies the trip. Its granite vimana (tower over the sanctum) rises more than 60 metres and was the tallest of its kind in India when built. Standing in the vast courtyard at sunset, when the stone turns gold and families gather on the lawns, is one of the great experiences of South India. Add the palace museums and the city’s crafts, and you have an easy, rewarding stop on any temple tour.
Top sights in Thanjavur
Brihadeeswara Temple
Rajaraja I built the temple between 1003 and 1010 CE, entirely of granite. The vimana, with its many tapering tiers, is crowned by a large stone cupola. Facing the sanctum is a monolithic Nandi about 6 metres long, housed in its own pavilion. The sanctum holds a very large Shiva lingam, and the walls of the circumambulatory passage carry Chola-era frescoes that were later painted over by the Nayaks and rediscovered in 1931 (this passage is usually not open to visitors). Look for the inscriptions around the base, which record the king’s gifts and the names of temple staff.
Thanjavur Palace complex
The Nayak and Maratha palace in the old town is partly in ruins but still impressive, with a bell tower, courtyards and a durbar hall. Inside the complex is the Art Gallery, with one of the best collections of Chola bronzes you will see anywhere, and the Saraswathi Mahal Library, which holds thousands of palm-leaf and paper manuscripts collected by the Maratha rulers, with a small museum open to the public.
Other sights
Schwartz Church, built in 1779 by the missionary Christian Friedrich Schwartz, stands by Sivaganga Park near the Big Temple. Inside is a marble memorial to Schwartz commissioned by his former ward, the Maratha king Serfoji II, from the English sculptor John Flaxman. If you have extra time, the Punnainallur Mariamman Temple on the edge of the city is popular with local pilgrims.
Sample two-day plan from Pondicherry
This route is the core of our Great Chola Temples tour. For a longer loop, the Trichy, Thanjavur and Madurai tour continues to Trichy and Madurai, and the Grand Tamil Nadu temple tour covers the whole region.
Day 1: Pondicherry – Kumbakonam – Thanjavur
- Early start; stop at Chidambaram or go straight to Kumbakonam.
- Airavatesvara Temple at Darasuram around midday or early afternoon.
- Reach Thanjavur for the Big Temple at sunset and the evening puja.
Day 2: Thanjavur and back
- Return to the Big Temple at 6 am for quiet photographs.
- Palace complex, Art Gallery and Saraswathi Mahal Library.
- Visit a craft workshop or shop for Thanjavur paintings.
- Drive back to Pondicherry, or continue to Trichy.
How to reach Thanjavur from Pondicherry
Most of our guests drive via Cuddalore, Chidambaram and Kumbakonam, which lets you break the journey at temples along the way. Allow three and a half to four hours without stops. Thanjavur railway junction has trains from Chennai and Villupuram, and buses run from Pondicherry via Kumbakonam. If you are flying out afterwards, Tiruchirappalli (Trichy) airport is the closest.
Best time and weather
November to February is the best time, with pleasant days and cool mornings. October to December brings the northeast monsoon; rain can be heavy but usually comes in bursts. From March to June it is hot, with temperatures often near 40 °C in May. The granite floor of the temple courtyard gets very hot by late morning, so plan visits for early morning and after 4 pm.
Around the Tamil month of Aippasi (October–November) the temple celebrates Sadhaya Vizha, marking the birth star of Rajaraja I, with music and processions – check dates if you want to catch it.
Food and local specialities
Thanjavur’s hotels serve classic delta vegetarian food: a banana-leaf meal with sambar, rasam, kootu and payasam, and crisp dosas in the evening. Non-vegetarian restaurants near the bus stands offer biryani and Chettinad-style dishes.
The city is known for Thanjavur paintings, with their gold-foil work and rich colours; the Thanjavur thalaiyatti bommai, or nodding doll; brass art plates; and the Thanjavur veena. Several of these crafts carry Geographical Indication tags. Buy from government emporiums or established workshops to be sure of quality.
Practical tips
- At the time of writing, the Big Temple is open from about 6 am to 12:30 pm and 4 pm to 8:30 pm for darshan; the courtyard may be accessible during the break. Check before you go.
- Wear modest clothing covering shoulders and knees, and leave footwear at the paid counter by the entrance.
- Photography is allowed in the courtyard but not inside the sanctum.
- Sundays and festival days are very crowded; weekday mornings are the calmest.
- Allow at least two hours for the palace complex – the Art Gallery alone deserves an hour.
Official information: UNESCO World Heritage Centre
Frequently asked questions
How far is Thanjavur from Pondicherry?
About 168 km by road via Kumbakonam, which takes three and a half to four hours.
Who built the Thanjavur Big Temple?
The Chola emperor Rajaraja I built the Brihadeeswara Temple between 1003 and 1010 CE.
What are the Brihadeeswara Temple timings?
At the time of writing, darshan is from about 6 am to 12:30 pm and 4 pm to 8:30 pm. Timings can change on festival days.
Can I visit Thanjavur as a day trip from Pondicherry?
It is possible but tiring, with seven to eight hours of driving. An overnight stay in Thanjavur or Kumbakonam is much better.
What should I buy in Thanjavur?
Thanjavur paintings, nodding dolls (thalaiyatti bommai), brass art plates and bronze icons are the classic buys.
