Last updated:
This full-day trip covers three sides of the coast south of Pondicherry: a great temple, a mangrove forest and the site of one of the oldest ports in Tamil history. All three are within about 110 km of Pondicherry, so you can see them in a day and sleep in your own hotel.
The order of the day is set by timings. The temple at Chidambaram closes from midday to late afternoon, the boats at Pichavaram run through the day, and the art gallery at Poompuhar reopens after lunch.
Thillai Nataraja temple, Chidambaram
The Thillai Nataraja temple is dedicated to Shiva as the cosmic dancer and represents space (akasha) among the five element temples. Its gold-roofed sanctum, the Chit Sabha, and the four tall gopurams make it one of the most important temples in Tamil Nadu. At the time of writing it is open from about 6 am to 12 noon and again from about 5 pm to 10 pm; plan to be inside by mid-morning. Men may be asked to remove shirts in the inner shrine, and modest dress is expected.
Pichavaram mangroves
Pichavaram, about 15 km from Chidambaram, is a maze of channels and islands covered in mangroves between the Vellar and Coleroon estuaries. Tamil Nadu Tourism runs the boat house, with rowing boats and motor boats. Rowing boats are slower but can enter the narrow tunnels of roots where motor boats cannot. Boating hours are roughly 9 am to 4 or 5 pm at the time of writing; rides may stop in heavy rain or strong wind. Bird life is best in the cooler months.
Poompuhar: the old Chola port
Poompuhar, also known as Kaveripoompattinam or Puhar, was a capital and port of the early Cholas and a busy trading city in the Sangam age. It is the setting of the Tamil epic Silappathikaram, the story of Kannagi and Kovalan, and also appears in Manimekalai and Pattinappalai. Little of the ancient city is visible today; much of it is believed to lie under the sea and the sand, and offshore surveys have found remains.
The Silappathikaram Art Gallery retells the epic in carved stone panels by sculptors from the Mamallapuram college of sculpture. At the time of writing it is open from 8.30 am to 8.30 pm with a break from 1 pm to 2 pm. The Marine Archaeological Museum nearby, run by the Tamil Nadu archaeology department, displays finds from the land and underwater excavations; it is open from 10 am to 5 pm and closed on Fridays. The beach is a popular local spot, but the sea here can be rough, so swimming is not advised.
Best time to go
November to February is the most pleasant period for a long day outdoors, and the mangroves are busy with birds. The north-east monsoon in October and November can bring heavy rain to this coast. In April and May, start even earlier, as afternoons are hot. Weekends and festival days are crowded at both the temple and the boat house.
Route at a glance
- Pondicherry → Chidambaram: about 64 km, 1.5 hours via Cuddalore
- Chidambaram → Pichavaram: about 15 km, 30 minutes
- Chidambaram → Poompuhar via Sirkazhi: about 40 km, 1 hour
- Poompuhar → Pondicherry: about 105–110 km, 2.5 hours
- Total: about 230 km of driving
What to carry
- A hat, sunscreen and water for the boat ride; there is little shade on the open channels
- Clothes suitable for the temple, and a bag for footwear
- Some cash for boat tickets, entry fees and small purchases
- A light change of clothes if you plan to paddle at Poompuhar beach
How to customise
- Add Tranquebar, a short drive south of Poompuhar, for Fort Dansborg, or make it an overnight trip with the Tranquebar, Karaikal and Velankanni coast tour
- Stop at Vaitheeswaran Koil near Sirkazhi, one of the Navagraha temples
- Visit Chidambaram only with the Pancha Bhoota Sthalam tour
- Read about more boating trips near Pondicherry
Frequently asked questions
Can Chidambaram, Pichavaram and Poompuhar be done in one day from Pondicherry?
Yes. The total driving is about 230 km, roughly 5–5.5 hours, which leaves time for the temple, a boat ride and Poompuhar if you start at 7 am.
Which is better at Pichavaram, a rowing boat or a motor boat?
A rowing boat. It is slower but can go into the narrow mangrove tunnels, which is the best part of the trip. Motor boats stay in the wider channels.
What are the Chidambaram Nataraja temple timings?
At the time of writing, about 6 am to 12 noon and 5 pm to 10 pm. The temple is closed in the afternoon.
How far is Poompuhar from Chidambaram?
About 40 km by road via Sirkazhi, roughly an hour by car.
