The Thillai Nataraja Temple is the spiritual heart of Chidambaram, about an hour and a half south of Pondicherry. It is dedicated to Shiva as Nataraja, the Lord of Dance, and unusually the main image is not a lingam but a metal figure of the dancing god. The image of Nataraja known around the world from Chola bronzes is closely tied to this temple.
Chidambaram is also one of the Pancha Bhoota Sthalams, the five Shiva temples of the elements, where it represents akasha: space or ether. The complex covers about 40 acres in the centre of town.
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History and administration
Chidambaram is praised in the hymns of the Tamil Shaiva saints, and the temple was a favoured shrine of the Chola kings, who treated Nataraja as their family deity. Inscriptions credit the Chola ruler Parantaka I in the 10th century with covering the roof of the sanctum in gold, and later dynasties, including the Pandyas, Vijayanagara rulers and Nayaks, added gopurams, halls and the large tank.
Unlike most big Tamil Nadu temples, it is not run by the state. It is administered by the Podhu Dikshitars, a hereditary community of priests. In 2014 the Supreme Court of India upheld their right to manage the temple.
What to see
- Chit Sabha (Chitsabai): the golden-roofed sanctum where Nataraja is worshipped with his consort Sivakami. Tradition says the roof is made of 21,600 gold tiles, one for each breath a person takes in a day.
- Chidambara Rahasyam: beside Nataraja hangs a curtain. When the priests draw it back, you see strings of golden bilva leaves and apparently empty space: the “secret of Chidambaram”, representing Shiva as formless space.
- Kanaka Sabha and other halls: the golden hall in front of the sanctum, the Nritta Sabha shaped like a chariot, and the thousand-pillared Raja Sabha.
- Gopurams: four towering gateways about 40 metres tall. The eastern gopuram is carved with the 108 dance postures (karanas) of the Natya Shastra, with inscriptions naming each one.
- Govindaraja Perumal shrine: a shrine to Vishnu reclining, inside the same complex, a rare meeting of Shaiva and Vaishnava worship.
- Sivaganga tank: the large temple tank surrounded by pillared corridors.
Festivals
The two great festivals are Aani Thirumanjanam (June–July) and Arudra Darshan in the month of Margazhi (December–January), when Nataraja is carried out in procession and the chariot festival draws huge crowds. The Natyanjali dance festival, held around Maha Shivaratri (February–March), brings classical dancers from across India to perform in the temple as an offering to the Lord of Dance.
Timings
At the time of writing, the temple is usually open from about 6 AM to 12 noon and 5 PM to 10 PM, with several pujas through the day. The evening rituals, when lamps are waved before Nataraja and the Rahasyam is shown, are especially atmospheric. Timings change on festival days, so check before you go. Entry is free.
Practical tips
- Dress code: modest traditional clothing; cover shoulders and knees.
- Footwear: left at the counters outside the gopurams.
- Photography: not allowed near the sanctum. Follow the priests’ instructions.
- Priests: the Dikshitars conduct the rituals and may offer to explain the temple. Offerings are voluntary.
- Timing: reach well before the midday closure, especially if you are coming from Pondicherry.
Visiting from Pondicherry
Chidambaram is about 64 km from Pondicherry, roughly one and a half hours by car. A half-day or day trip easily covers the temple and the Pichavaram mangrove forest, about 15 km away. Chidambaram is also the first stop on our Great Chola Temples tour and part of the Pancha Bhoota Sthalam tour, both by car with driver.
Frequently asked questions
What is the Chidambara Rahasyam?
It is the “secret of Chidambaram”: a curtained space beside Nataraja that, when revealed, shows golden bilva leaves and empty space, representing Shiva as formless space (akasha).
Which element does the Chidambaram temple represent?
Akasha, meaning space or ether. It is one of the five Pancha Bhoota Sthalams.
What are the Chidambaram Nataraja Temple timings?
At the time of writing, usually about 6 AM to 12 noon and 5 PM to 10 PM. Timings change on festival days, so check before you go.
Who manages the Chidambaram temple?
The Podhu Dikshitars, a hereditary community of priests. The Supreme Court upheld their right to administer the temple in 2014.
How far is Chidambaram from Pondicherry?
About 64 km, roughly one and a half hours by car.
